Foolproof Sufganiyot Draft

How I make it

Dough

1. Put the yeast in a small bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the lukewarm milk, stir and set aside for about 10 minutes, until foamy.

2. Fit the stand mixer with the dough hook. Put the flour, sugar, yolks, cognac, lemon zest, vanilla and the rest of the milk in the bowl. Add the yeast mixture.

3. Knead for a few minutes, add the butter, melted, and knead a few minutes more, until the dough is smooth.

4. Cover the bowl with a towel and leave in a warm place for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until doubled.

Shaping

1. Lightly flour a tray or work surface. Cut the dough into four pieces.

2. Cut pieces of dough with a knife, or pinch them off by hand, and roll into balls ¾-1¼ inches (2-3 cm) across.

3. Set the balls on the floured surface and flatten them slightly with your hands. Or roll out the dough and cut circles with a glass.

4. Let rise for about 30 minutes more, on parchment paper.

Frying and filling

1. Heat oil for deep frying in a pot to 340°F (170°C). Add a few balls of dough and fry for about 2 minutes per side, until golden.

2. Lift the doughnuts out and drain on paper towels or a rack. Repeat with the rest.

3. Fill with a pastry syringe, or make a small hole in each doughnut and fill gently with a teaspoon. Dust with powdered sugar and serve.

Chocolate glaze (optional)

1. Melt the chocolate in the microwave. Put it in a bowl, heat for 30 seconds (no longer!), stir, and repeat until fully melted.

2. Add the oil to the melted chocolate and stir until fully blended.

3. Carefully dip the tops of the doughnuts in the chocolate and scatter sprinkles over them. Let the chocolate set.

What I've learned

• The doughnuts are very delicate after rising, so I let them rise on parchment paper and slide them straight into the oil without handling and squashing them.
• Without a thermometer, I fry a few test doughnuts one at a time and adjust the heat until 2 minutes per side gives golden outsides and cooked-through centers.
• The oil in the chocolate glaze gives it shine.